The best ways to set up a hot tub in your backyard
You don’t have to invest much time luxuriating in a hot-tub spa to discover its relaxation advantages. And while you ‘d anticipate all that warm swirling water to be relaxing, it can likewise work wonders on aching muscles and joints and it’s a great well-rounded tension reliever. Backyard health spas are perfect for families on the go. They can slow us down, assist us refocus and drain away the stress of the day – all in about 20 minutes.
Spas are not for everyone, nevertheless. All those warm, rubbing bubbles can raise high blood pressure and heart rates, while decreasing blood glucose. As such, they’re not suggested for infants, the older or those with diabetes, high blood pressure or heart problem.
Choosing Your hot tub
Searching for hot tubs can be a little complicated. There are so many brand names and models, and every sales representative seems to highlight a various set of features. As normal, price is a good indication of quality. Hot Tubs range between $1500 and $10,000, with the better models starting around $3500. These are 3- and four-person tubs. Larger day spas cost more, and those with lots of specialized jets, DC-powered pumps and ozone-generating water cleansers, can soon reach $6000 to $8000. Include devices and you can easily pay a couple thousand more.
A few business offer two-person hot tubs, but most begin with three- or four-person seating and go up to the eight-person size. A full-size tub can measure 8 x 8 ft. and 42 in. Huge tubs are great for big, active homes with plenty of area, however smaller tubs are no less enticing or therapeutic.
Filled with water, a full-size tub can weigh 5500 pounds – more than most traditionally framed floorings and decks can safely manage. If you cannot beef up the flooring, you’ll either need a smaller tub or a setup on concrete.
The majority of spa shells these days are made in 2 layers: a strengthened fiberglass base and a formed acrylic shell laminated over it. The shell is piped and fitted with pumps and jets, and is insulated.
Many spas are wired with 240-volt electrical equipment and some consist of DC converters. DC motors run more silently and DC circuit boards are really reputable. A couple of economy tubs are readily available with 120-volt circuitry to make the electrical connections easier – you simply plug these designs in. These tubs are little, their heating units are less effective and they shut down when the jets are turned on.
Companies usually offer 10- to 20-year guarantees versus leakages through the shell, however these kinds of leaks are unlikely offered the density of the laminations. More likely are surface issues such as blisters, fractures and discoloration. Look for a 5- to seven-year surface service warranty and three- to five-year security on the pumps.
The spa we chose is a Jacuzzi Triton – a big model with all the bells and whistles. Other functions consist of a remote control for the tub operation, an AM/FM/CD gamer, underwater lighting, 4 headrest cushions and double waterfall fixtures. At 42 x 91 x 91 in., it’s not the biggest tub, however it comes close.
Locating The Tub
Our backyard is small, extending only about 20 ft. beyond a big deck. The grade likewise steps up about 2-1/2 ft., approximately 10 ft. far from the deck. To fit the tub, we removed a few of the bank and constructed a small maintaining wall. When choosing where to position your unit, remember that spas require service gain access to on all sides.
We planned for one side of our tub to be 18 in. To accommodate the depth of the retaining-wall blocks, plus a foot for drainage gravel, we cut into the bank an additional 24 in.
To construct the retaining wall, very first dig out the bank. Utilizing some of the gotten rid of soil, grade the installation area simply enough to allow drain far from the tub. For the very first row of landscape blocks, excavate a trench about 4 in. deep and fill it with pea gravel or gravel.
Level the gravel and compact it with a hand tamper or gas-powered sand-plate tamper. String a level line to guide the first row of blocks. Utilize a 4-ft. level to make sure the course is level.
Set landscape blocks on pea gravel in the trench to match the leveled string. Examine this very first course with a 4-ft. level.
With the first course in location, set the staying blocks. The kind of block we utilized has a lip along the back edge that locks over the block listed below. When turning a corner, you’ll have to break off this edge to keep the very same setback in between the courses. To keep these blocks from sliding forward with time, glue them in place with masonry building adhesive. When you end up the wall, back-fill with gravel. Cover the top of the gravel with weed-guard fabric and soil.
Where the wall turns, break off edge-lock tabs on the blocks. Next, use building adhesive to hold the blocks in place.
Next, set the form lumber for the concrete pad, and level it in all instructions. Fill the form with concrete and screed it with a straight 2 x 4.
While a sufficient pad may include 2500-psi concrete, beefed up with iron rebar or wire mesh, local electrical codes would have required us to ground this reinforcing metal back to the electrical circuit box. To prevent this issue, we upgraded to 3000-psi concrete and added fiberglass support to our 4-in.- thick pad.
After pouring concrete in a leveled type, screed it with a straight 2 x 4. Float and trowel the surface smooth.
We moved our tub from the driveway to the website on a small trailer. Carefully move the tub off and position it on the piece.
Setting The Tub
If you buy your hot tub from a spa dealership, the company will typically set it in location for you. If you buy through a home center or warehouse store, however, you might have to move and set up the tub yourself. Big tubs weigh near a thousand pounds, so this can seem an overwhelming job. With 5 or six friends and a small trailer, however, it all ends up being workable. Presuming your tub is in a cage in the driveway, get rid of the packaging and move the tub onto the trailer. Wheel it to the site and thoroughly move it onto the concrete pad. If you have to go through a gate or narrow side backyard, stand the tub on end atop a furniture cart. The ideal side of our tub, as you face the front, is built for upright travel.
Water and electrical power don’t mix, so if you’re not comfy with your wiring abilities, this is a great time to work with an electrician.
In our case, local codes required a constant bond wire from the tub to the service panel. This is in addition to the electrical ground. Codes differ on this point, so make sure to ask your regional inspector. We likewise needed a detach box at least 5 ft. from the tub and a GFCI breaker securing the entire circuit.
Due to the fact that of the DC converter, we used only two hot wires, a grounding wire and a bonding wire – no neutral was required. Our spa was close to 70 ft. from the circuit box, so we ran 6-ga. stranded wire for the two hots and the ground wire, and an 8-ga. bond wire. While all outdoor circuitry has to be in avenue, we decided to set up the whole run from the primary panel in 1-in. PVC pipeline.
Begin by running the channel from the circuit box to a house rim joist near the tub. Bore through the siding and the joist with a hole saw and feed the channel through the joist.
Bring power from the primary panel to the exterior through your home’s rim joist. Bore a hole to slide avenue through.
Glue a POUND avenue box to the conduit and extend the channel as much as a disconnect box. Dig a channel a minimum of 18 in. deep for the buried avenue from the tub. At the tub, sign up with a LB to the channel with a slip coupling to allow the ground to shift seasonally without stressing the conduit connections. We brought the avenue underground to our deck. Here, we brought it up to the deck with another slip coupling and LB, and then ran it to the detach box.
At the tub, splice a slip coupling simply below the POUND connection. Run the avenue in a trench a minimum of 18 in. deep
With the conduit in place, pull the four wires from the main panel to the detach box with a fish tape.
With avenue from the panel and tub conference at the detach box, use a fish tape to pull the four wires through.
Bind the hot wires to the hot terminals and the ground wires to the ground terminals. In our case, it was required that the bonding wire continue undisturbed through the detach panel.
Inside the detach box, connect the hot wires to the 4 hot terminals, and the ground wires to the 2 ground terminals.
Finish the outdoor wiring by making the hot, ground and bond connections in the spa’s devices box. You’ll discover the terminals clearly labeled.
At the tub’s control box, secure the hot wires, the ground wire and the bonding wire according to maker’s directions.
Lastly, link the circuit hot wires to a 50-amp GFCI breaker in the service panel and link the bond and grounding wires to the panel’s grounding bus. Leave the circuit’s power off till after you’ve filled the tub with water and your work has passed inspection.
In the service panel, connect the circuit with a 50-amp, 240-volt GFCI breaker. Turn off the power and avoid touching the panel.
To make steps for our hot tub, we initially poured a 31-in.- large concrete pad, then built 2 30-in.- broad action boxes out of cedar. Make package frames out of 2 x 6 lumber. Size the depth of the bottom box for two 2 x 12 treads, and the depth of the top box for one 2 x 12 tread. Assemble the boxes with screws.
Develop frames from 2 x 6 cedar for the two steps. Build the bigger bottom frame initially and connect two 2 x 12s to its top.
After the bottom box is developed, secure the top box frame to it with screws owned diagonally from the within
Location the smaller sized frame on the rear edge of the lower action and secure the 2 levels with screws driven diagonally.
Include the top tread and stain the assembly to match the skirting.
Finish the action assembly by screwing a single 2 x 12 tread to the top box frame. Stain the actions to match the tub.
1. Make sure hot tub/spa is filled to proper amount. The Proper amount is whatever the spa manufacturer suggests the spa water to be for proper operation of the spa. SpaCap.com Swim Spa Covers/ Hot Tub Covers rest right on the water surface so make sure your spa has water in it.
2. Distinguish the top from the bottom and observe the location of the valves. The top is the side of the Spacap with the Sunbrella fabric on it that shows when it is on the spa. The bottom is the side with the valves on it. When the SpaCap is on the spa, the bottom will rest on the water.
3. Place the SpaCap cover on spa, laying it on water surface. Top, Sunbrella side up. You are meant to fold the cover back to expose the valves to fill your SpaCap.
Note: Valves are meant to be on underside when your cover is on hot tub.
4. Inflation. Open the flap of the valve you intend to put air in. Prop open the inner check valve with a plastic funnel. The funnel will also divert the air into the cover. In order to put air into the SpaCap you need something that moves a volume of air. For example a shop vac that has an exhaust port you can hook the hose into or a leaf blower. An air compressor would work but it will take longer since it is designed to move air under pressure. The SpaCap is not designed to be under pressure.
Inflate the “Top” valve first until there is about eight inches of air. Inflate the bottom unmarked chamber to desired level. We recommend using a shop vac to inflate your SpaCap.com Swim Spa Cover/ Hot Tub Cover.
5. Close valves and center the cover on the spa so that it evenly covers the entire hot tub.
6. Place fasteners as needed. The fasteners help the SpaCap keep its shape, insulate better and keep the moisture running off. The fasteners should be equally spaced and should go below the acrylic of the spa. If your spa has a wood lip that protrudes further then the acrylic the fasteners should go about three inches below the wood lip. If as you are installing the fasteners the cover becomes difficult to fasten on the last side, you have too much air in the cover. There should still be a little give in the cover when fastened and the corners should not be lifting.
If your water is not heated when you first fit the cover, do not inflate the cover all the way. When the water starts to heat up, the air in the cover will, too, possibly causing the cover to be over inflated.
Finally, set up the polyester filters in the filter housings and fill the tub with a garden hose.
With the installation complete, it’s time to fill the tub. Before filling, however, set up the polyester filters in their housings.
Place the hose into one of the filter real estates and tape it in place. Anticipate the tub to fill out about 45 minutes.
Fill the tub through the filter real estates with a garden hose. Tape the hose in location. The tub needs to fill out about 45 minutes.